Bohemian Break – II

In my bright red coat, I stand in the Old Town square in Prague on the first morning of our year-end holiday. It was stinging, the cold, but the savoury aroma of sausages and the sweet smell of hot wine was in the air. The world seemed to have come together in that square to natter away.

Time should get stuck at your command on holidays.

Have you noticed how after that first day of any break, every other day just flies by?  It started on a note of Christmas markets at the historic square in Old Town where the Tyn Cathedral (which you can spot in the backdrop) stands tall with spires that aspire to reach the skies.

The Astronomical Clock Tower of Prague announces itself too with its tall, tall tower and a  clock that has kept time for 600 years. There is a legend about the clock and I cannot help but be fascinated by lores. I call upon your ‘willing suspension of disbelief’ because the story goes so. A Master Hanuš built the clock in 1410. The city councillors were delighted with it but they were also suspicious. What if Master Hanuš replicated the clock in any other location in Europe? That could not be. They blinded him on a dark, dark night. But then I also think of the Mughal emperors in India who are known to have chopped off hands of architects and workers who built them their glorious tombs and structures. Maybe this legend is not that hard to believe after all.


When the clock comes alive every hour, twelve wooden apostles show up in its windows to greet the people. Flanking the Astronomical Dial, if you squint a bit, you can spot on the right a skeleton ringing a bell (possibly Death holding its hourglass, but according to a tour guide, a supermodel 😉 ) and a Turk next to it. On the left hand side, you see a man with a mirror (portraying Vanity). Adjoining him is a man with a bag of money and a stick in his hand (signifying miserliness).  These sculptures move when the clock chimes. But the other four figures below of an angel, chronicler, astronomer and a philosopher on either side of the Calendar Dial remain still. At the very end, a golden cockerel on top of the tower quivers its wings and crows, after which the bell rings. Old locals believe that with the first crowing of the cock in the morning all evil spirits are forced to leave Prague.
Decorative facades of buildings off Old Town Square
In the backdrop is St. Nicholas Church (you might say, another St. Nicholas? Ref: The stunning Lesser Town church in The Bohemia Break – I). This is a Baroque church in Old Town. My pick of it was a sculpture of an archbishop (possibly) holding a staff and peering into the distance, with a bewildered look his face, on the corner of the facade of the church.  
The imposing 14th century Church of Our Lady before Týn with its distinctly Gothic look.
Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV looks down at the world from atop his pedestal.
At the end of the road is one of the early 13 gates into Old Town. Today the 11th-century Gothic tower divides Old Town from New Town. The Powder Tower is named after gunpowder that was stored in it in the 17th century.
One of my favourite buildings in the city. Depictions of beautiful women, floral and leafy motifs, brilliant ceramics, gilded decorations and stained glass panes make the Municipal House a perfect example of the Art Nouveau style of architecture.
High ceilings, bay windows, lots of mirrors and crystal chandeliers bring in touches of opulence, lushness, grandeur and easily they come together to make it one of the most beautiful cafes I have seen in Europe.
To tear my eyes off these ornamental building fronts was a task. 
Art Nouveau hotel fronts
On the bank of the Vltava, sits this muse on the Rudolfinum, home of the Czech Philharmonic. It is a paean to 19th century Czech society when businessmen and financial institutions took it upon themselves to build the grand Rudolfinum that would house an art gallery, a conservatoire and be the home of music.

Walking tours are my preferred way to get to know the inner workings of a city. In Prague an outfit called Sandemans does a neat job. We were taken on a walk in Old Town by a tour guide called Terry whose husband as it turns out is from Northampton (six degrees of separation is not a myth). For three hours, she entertained us without making us snore. But, as always there are exceptions to the rule. In this case, it was a quartet of Indians. They took a half a dozen selfies with the group, took more selfies as all of us listened to Terry while she walked us through various alleys, and when we took a drink/food break in an eatery, they looked around furtively to check if Terry was around (why bother when you can get away without paying a penny). They then proceeded to slink away midway. They had had their selfies, thank you.

Into Talmudic Legends & the Jewish Quarter

I was introduced to the story of Golem one night as we slipped into bed after a long day of walking in the city. We were putting up at the InterContinental Prague, a heartbeat away from the Jewish quarter. Every night, I would find a little bedtime story waiting on the pillow. I did feel like a child all over again.

Way before Hitler came into the picture, anti-semitism in Europe was rampant. During the 16th century when Prague was ruled by Emperor Rudolph II, a rabbi decided that the Jews needed protection in the form of a massive creature made out of clay called Golem. He did not look anything like Gollum (ref: Lord of the Rings) if you are confusing the two. His creator was Rabbi Löw who breathed life into Golem by combining the elements of fire, water, air and earth. As it happens the best conceived plans in life go awry and so did the Golem. He wreaked havoc upon the city and had to be destroyed by the rabbi. There are whispers that Golem was hidden in the attic of the Old-New Synagogue.

The Jewish community used to live in the quarter which came up between the river Vltava and the Old Town since the 13th century. It served as a ghetto from the beginning, though from time to time, the walls of the ghetto were razed down by various administrations.

The startling feature of the quarter is the Old Jewish Cemetery, supposed to be the largest Jewish cemetery in Europe. There are up to 12 layers of bodies stacked over each other and thousands of gravestones vying for space inside the cemetery which is home to the dead from the 15th to the 18th centuries. It emerges as a steep-walled structure, rising above the street on which you walk in the Jewish Quarter.

The incongruous addition to the quarter is Paris Street or Pařížská. Wandering beneath buildings that were pulled down and rebuilt in the 20th century blending together many architectural styles from the Neo-Baroque to the Neo-Renaissance, it is easy to lose yourself in the grandeur of it. The windows in each building are just massive displays of haute couture. Louis Vuitton, Dior, Chanel, Bottega Veneta, Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Prada, Gucci. The roll-call of designer boutiques are here.

The quarter did have residences yet it was completely in contrast to the Jewish Quarter of Budapest we had seen just a trip earlier. The Hungarian Jewish quarter was lively and hip, bustling with bars and eateries. Its Czech counterpart was as quiet and sombre. A mood of contemplation steals over you as you walk through it.

It is difficult not to tear up listening to stories of the Holocaust anywhere. It is no different an experience in Prague. Plus there is the hair-raising fact that Hitler wanted to keep Prague’s Jewish Quarter intact as a ‘Museum of an Extinct Race’. The part of history which is a reminder. That we should not shut our eyes and that we should not forget.

The Bohemian gilded look of the Restaurant U Stare Synagogy (Restaurant at the Synagogue) on Paris Street.
The Jewish Town Hall
The Old-New Synagogue is the oldest active synagogue in Europe. It dates back to the year 1270 and there is a story attached to it during the rule of the Reich. A Nazi agent who entered its attic (where the Golem is supposed to have been hidden) never made it back from the synagogue. After, the Gestapo gave it a wide berth.
Life goes trotting by on Paris Street


The Church of the Holy Spirit borders the Jewish Quarter. In the 16th century, during the reign of Ferdinand I, Jews had to attend Catholic services at the church.
Paris Street
Spanish Synagogue. Built in the 19th century over an earlier synagogue in the Moorish Revival style. Inspired by the Al-Andalus style of architecture. 
Many Jews from the city lost their lives at the Terezin Concentration Camp.
Today there are 6,000 Jews living in the city.



Points of Pride

It is difficult not to come across these famous Czech personalities when you are walking the streets of Prague. You know them.

There is Franz Kafka. The man who penned works in German such as The Castle and The Metamorphosis. I understood little of him when I read him, a long time ago that is. His morbid thoughts were a disquieting read for my young brain. Maybe if I read him now, the perspective would be different. The man who craved solitude ‘not like a hermit’ but ‘like a dead man’ for his creativity, was born to a German-speaking Jewish middle-class family in the Jewish quarter of Prague.

Here you see Kafka next to the Spanish Synagogue in the Jewish Quarter. Kafka wrote of a young man riding on another man’s shoulders through the streets of Prague in a short story. This is an interpretation of that.
Cafe Kafka is situated in the house into which the writer was born in 1883 and where he lived with his family for two more years before shifting to a house on Wenceslas Square.
The corner building on the left hand side of this photograph is Kafka’s birthplace.

I do not have any photographs of Alphonse Mucha. But I did buy beautiful postcards that depict the Art Nouveau style of art work by this Czech artist who was born in a Moravian town in 1860. Mucha’s art work is what you see when you see most Art Nouveau pieces of art. Beautiful, dreamy-eyed women decked up in Neoclassical robes and surrounded by lots and lots of flowers on a pale pastel palette. Mucha lived in Prague in his later years and dedicated his time to decorating the Theatre of Fine Arts in the city and putting up murals at the Municipal House.

The third personality is one of my favourite writers and probably yours too if you have read him. Rainer Maria Rilke. The Bohemian-Austrian poet was born in Prague. There must be something about the air of the city you might be inclined to think, because just like Kafka, whose father beat him up often and considered him a failure because of his creative bent of mind, Rilke had a bad childhood. Rilke’s mother dressed him up as a girl probably in an effort to console herself for the loss of a daughter who had died before Rilke was born. Later in life, despite where his talent lay, Rilke was forced to join a military academy.

A few lines from Rilke that make your heart ache with the beauty that lies in them.

“Break off my arms, I’ll take hold of you
with my heart as with a hand.
Stop my heart, and my brain will start to beat.
And if you consume my brain with fire,
I’ll feel you burn in every drop of my blood.”


Christmas the Czech Way

Klobása (pork sausages) and conversations in the Old Town Square
I had this sweet treat first in Zakopane, Poland, and then in Budapest. In Prague, it is known as Trdelnik. But its original name is kurtsoskalacs and it hails from Transylvania. A Transylvanian cook in the employment of a Hungarian general is said to have got it with him to the Czech lands in the 18th century.
Spit-roasted pork
Grilled cheese. I had already tried a Polish cousin of this in Zakopane and loved it. I was delighted to spot this in Prague.
To offset the saltiness of the cheese, they serve it with a sweet-tangy plum jam.
Handmade crochet the traditional Czech way
Chicken kebab and sausage noons
Come with me, he says. Till what we saw did make us quite sad.
A donkey, a sheep, a goat and a pony tied up inside a very small enclosure in the middle of a Christmas market. The donkey, for example, started every time he turned any which way. If only we could have let them out. 

The Vintage Way of Going Around

These cars are apparently vintage cars produced in the Czech Republic during the 1920s. You can take expensive tours around the city in these. But they are not bank breaking either.




Foodie Tales

U Svobodnych Zednaru carries a Freemason symbol but let that not mislead you. They simply like the masonic touch to the decor.
The food at U Svobodnych Zednaru is excellent value for money and here you can see the look of glee on my husband’s face at the prospect of goulash. He had loved tucking into this classic meat stew in Austria and Hungary. I love charting the way food too travels. Goulash might be deemed Hungarian in origin, but it arrived in Hungary only with Turkish soldiers in the 16th century. 
Home of Pilsner 
Lokal is a chain of Pilsner pubs that serves up excellent fare amidst traditional Czech decor from the 70s. It is popular with locals, so it runs to full capacity on most days.
Chocolate cheesecake. Unputdownable proposition. Also, gets over real quick. 
A Parisian style cafe from the early 1900s with clients of the likes of Franz Kafka and Albert Einstein when he was a professor at the University of Prague.  
In the old days, you could make calls to anyone in the city using this receiver and the codes. 
The beautiful interiors of Cafe Louvre that was shut in 1948 for a while by a communist coup. The cafe is not at all expensive and the food they serve up is delicious. It is a good place to frequent for dessert too.
The local Czech beer on tap at Cafe Louvre is worth its hoppy value.




James Dean restaurant. Only because I am a James Dean lover.
Enter Hotel Paris. The 1904 building is very Art Nouveau. Ceramic mosaics, an elegant staircase with its ornate wrought iron railing, brass motifs, etched glass mirrors and windows, and golden chandeliers take the breath away.  
Cafe de Paris
Reduta Jazz Club. Prague’s oldest jazz club is a perfect place to unwind on an evening. If you find yourself in Prague with nowhere to go after a long day out, head here. Started by a bassist in the 1950s, the club did become a symbol of the Velvet Revolution at the end of the 80s. And just because I like trivia, it hosted an impromptu saxophone performance by Bill Clinton in the 90s.
If my husband gets excited at the sight of goulash, I harbour similar feeling for bakes. At The Bakeshop in Prague which was one of the best places for food that we entered in the city. It is in Old Town and I would not miss it if I were you. You will see why. 
Rugelach, a traditional Jewish pastry, stuffed in this case with nuts and chocolate, at The Bakeshop. 
Cranberry and orange brownie at The Bakeshop. This was heaven encased in a small square.



The places I have talked about above are all quite inexpensive but serve gorgeous food. So, if you are in Prague, do have a look in. You might come out with a wide smile and a sigh of content. Happy Travels.






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