Chasing Illusions in Gudvangen

Google Gudvangen. ‘Has she gone crazy?’ you might interject. ‘Here I pop by her post and she asks me to google the name?!’ Humour me for two seconds.

Atop the wikipedia page (for you do not have to click it open) dedicated to the small Viking village in Norway, you find yourself staring at an image of marvellous lofty peaks. The main peak in the photograph’s been squished and stretched up to look like a model lengthening her glorious svelte body. Then you notice later, much later, that the topmost peak seems to show you the middle finger.

Somebody’s idea of awful humour.

The day we reached Els’ cottage in Norheimsund we drove straight up into the county of Sogn og Fjordane. Gullible us inched closer and closer yet the peak did not materialise. Something was terribly wrong. The GPS informed us, we were there.

If you can look high and low for a peak, we did the job alright.

Then there we were in the middle of a valley that looked like it had been scooped out of the surrounding steep mountains, parts of which carried patches of fresh snow. A row of waterfalls gushed in slender threads of white down the mountains, at the foot of which stood a handful of white and red cottages and a harbour.

Welcome to Gudvangen. Not least like the photo we had seen. The jaws dropped once in disappointment – I cannot lie about that – but then it did drop once again in awe at the beauty dwarfing us. Ah but it was a stunning place blessed with tranquility to lull our travel-worn senses.

Dwarfed by the mountains, I stood there and wondered about what the Vikings must have felt when they arrived in this scenic spot on Nærøyfjord and transformed it into their market place. Did their seafaring nature make them glad that they had chanced upon this sublime Norwegian landscape? Or were they intimidated by the mountains that stood guard around the valley like ancient sentinels of grandeur. Who knows but they did not survive the 12th-century onslaught of black plague when the inhabitants died. People returned only when hundreds of years had passed by.

The graves of some Vikings are to be found nearby and hiking paths lead you into other pretty villages but it was too late for us to start a hike. We never got the chance to do any hike (Trolltunga or Gudvangen) given the rains holding sway over the next few days that we spent in Hordaland. We did however bask in the shadow of those mountains as we popped into Gudvangen Fjordtell, a hotel that makes you think that you are entering a Viking home, its roofs charmingly sheathed in grass. Inside the hotel’s cafe, I bought a wrap, the price of which spelled pure extortion. Then in Norway, you are holding onto your purses in vain if you decide to venture into a cafe or restaurant.

That astonishingly expensive wrap in our bellies and mixed feelings of satisfaction and dissatisfaction (strange bedfellows) mingling in our minds, we left Gudvangen, the village whose name translated, reads, ‘God’s fields by the water’.

20160811_192815.jpg
Weathered Viking of Gudvangen
20160811_185922.jpg
Roads that take you into Gudvangen. Flanked by dramatic mountains.
20160811_191540.jpg
Pretty cottages in the village
20160811_191715.jpg
Quaintness by the fjords
20160811_191511.jpg
One of the highest waterfalls in Norway is this, Kjelfossen.

IMG_20170525_102108_614.jpg

20160811_192131.jpg
Gudvangen Fjordtell
IMG_20170525_101959_799.jpg
Ferry dock where cruise ships do roll in from time to time

IMG_20170525_102036_611.jpg

2017-05-08 10.58.18 1.jpg
Hamlets that pop up after you have left Gudvangen behind

Where to Stay: If you want to do hikes in the area, it would be a good idea to stay in Gudvangen. You have all of two choices: Pitch up a tent or mobile home at Gudvangen Camping. Prices range between NOK 500 to NOK 800 per night. Or  put up at the Viking-inspired hotel called Gudvangen Fjordtell.

What to do:

The Magic White Caves of Gudvangen

Take a ferry trip between Gudvangen and Flåm

Hike the mountainous paths for views over the fjord. From a tiny village called Bakka, which is about 5 km from Gudvangen, take the path to the steep mountain of Rimstigen. It is a steep hike which takes two hours one way.

P.S.: The misleading wikipedia photo that I talk about right at the beginning is that of Lofoten Islands, the dramatic archipelago in Norway. Only a photoshopped version of it.

60 thoughts on “Chasing Illusions in Gudvangen

  1. Gudvangen is small but its beauty is breath-taking. When i was there, there was a Viking-theme village with people in leather/fur and they sold bow, items made of wood etc. You can also rent a Viking boat (with a dragon head) to sail in Naeroyfjord. Kind of cool! 🙂

    Liked by 2 people

    1. Absolutely cool. You must have got to attend the Viking festival, eh? They are apparently planning to set up a permanent village with the Viking theme. We did not rent a Viking boat (sounds darned exciting, bringing scenes from the TV show, The Vikings to mind) because sadly enough we had a long drive ahead back to our cottage.We were so beat!

      Liked by 1 person

      1. I must praise your husband’s driving skill 🙂 The street to/from Gudvangen is so steep and with so many narrow turns. I visited the village only briefly while waiting for my ferry to Flam. But I was able to see the sailing Viking boat. It was small though, not like the gigantic Viking ships in the museum in Oslo 🙂

        Liked by 1 person

      2. I have not been to Oslo but I can imagine the size of the ships just by shutting my eyes. Those Vikings never did things by halves, did they? Adi is a fantastic driver, thanks. But you know what was worse than the sharp turns? The effing long tunnels. The beauty of Flam too! It all is a beautiful dream, isn’t it, Norway that is? I would go back in a heartbeat.

        Like

    1. Thank you Courtney 🙂 It was lovely though on hindsight it becomes even more special. Sometimes it takes a bit of stepping back from the moment to get the glory of it. I hope you do get the chance soon!

      Liked by 1 person

  2. Excellent. And stunning pics.

    There’s every chance the Germans have a catch-all word for that strange feeling of simultaneous satisfaction/dissatisfaction. They have words like that. It will be long, and hard to pronounce, and surprisingly useful.

    Liked by 3 people

    1. Hahaha is that so? My German is quite limited beyond the quintessential ‘thanks’, ‘please’ and ‘sorry’. I doubt my powers of guttural speech to catch it in any case. And thanks for the funny comment apart from the compliment of course.

      Liked by 1 person

  3. I LOVE THIS. Seriously, you’re one of my favourite bloggers – everything you write (bar the serious and sad topics) always makes me laugh at least once. You fell prey to the Wikipedia trap . . . it happens to us all (unfortunately). What a gorgeous place, though! xx

    Liked by 3 people

    1. Aw thanks Mia. That is something to perk up this Friday of fixing-the-apartment woes. It is just my thing to fall prey to ridiculously obvious things, isn’t it? (I mean I knew what Lofoten looked like since it has been on my list for some time now). Well we all come with our lot in life and mine is to be a goof *deep sigh

      Liked by 1 person

  4. I love to see the hamlets surrounded by rising towers of land. I imagine such a simple life, though I’m sure everyone has their struggles. Imagine being among the first to land there and having your choice of where to build your home. Ugh, take me with you!

    Liked by 1 person

  5. Who needs Wikipedia and their Photoshopped pictures when we have your amazing pictures ? You’re really skilled 🙂

    Liked by 2 people

    1. Were you away on a long one and where all did you drive to? Now I guess it is time for you both to put up your feet. I have missed you guys. Thank you for the lovely words as usual, Norway is nothing less than magic.

      Liked by 1 person

      1. We were gone for almost two weeks driving in weather that ranged from freezing to over 100 degrees Fahrenheit. A truly interesting trip that we hope to share in the future but right now, we’re pooped. We missed you too!

        Liked by 1 person

  6. Wow, gorgeous place and interesting history. Loved the humor thrown into this post. Too bad about the drizzly weather. About the painful wrap purchase, I felt the same way traveling Switzerland. My siblings (who I was traveling with at the time) and I tried to split a meal to cut costs, apparently splitting food is not something that’s done in Switzerland… everyone looked down their noses at us. Our grubby hiking clothes probably didn’t help either…

    Liked by 2 people

    1. I hear you. My husband compared eating in Norway to that in Geneva (I have not been to Switzerland yet). Then we went to Luxembourg. It is fair to say that we now know where not to go crazy ordering up meals. The first time when we visited Norway, I ordered up a simple cappuccino and a plate of nachos at a cafe. The bill stated £25 (converted of course). My husband sat and finished the nachos even though he cannot stand eating them. So there you go. I do not envy you your Swiss experience. I think in such environments I either go completely quiet or I shake with laughter. Either extremes not recommended xx

      Liked by 1 person

  7. This is such a picturesque village sitting among beautiful rock walls. I want to walk on the path next to the river. It is interesting to imagine what vikings would have been thinking when they were boating through.

    Liked by 1 person

      1. I am doing well; the weather is perfect for my outdoor activities. I have been enjoying your travel news and photos that I can dream on for now 🤓. Hope you are doing well yourself?

        Liked by 1 person

  8. Beautiful pictures and so aptly written! Something similar happened during our road trip to Kaza in Himachal. The pictures we saw of small villages on various blogs were beyond words but not one mentioned that the weather there would be extremely harsh and we would be eating tons of dust. Even then we would love to visit those charming, non touristy villages again someday, just with a little more precautions.

    Liked by 2 people

    1. It is a bummer to be kind of waylaid in the virtual world but then the good thing is that we get to explore reality 😉 It is also important to show the real picture always. Thanks for the kind words…

      Like

  9. Dear Dippy, this is breathtakingly good!! Reading this at London airport I already feel refreshed and in the right mood heading home to Norway. Great post and superb shots!!
    Love, Dina 🇳🇴

    Liked by 1 person

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s